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Quick links: 01
- Split |
06 - Split/Sail
| 10 - Sail... Mljet
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14 - Dubrovnik cont'd |
18 - France |
21 - Cycling |
25 - Cycling cont'd |
29 - Villa cont'd |
32 - The Rest
Day 10 - Wednesday - Day 4 of sailing - Destination Mljet
After our usual great breakfast by Simon,
we departed Korčula
for another day of sailing. Hoping to find higher winds. For
a while, there was not much wind and so we jibed out way downwind.
Later in the day, I took the wheel. It was fairly uneventful until
the wind started gusting and changing directions on a whim. In one
instance it caught me off guard and came from around 11 o'clock, and so
I was steering to close to the wind. Not being experienced enough
to quickly decide the best course of action (ie I was turning the wheel
gently when I should have yanked it hard over to correct), Simon was
nearby and jumped on the helm and righted
 the ship. So we
experienced a lurch to port side with the ship hard over on a good
angle. Worst case would have been I let go of the helm and the
boat would have headed into the wind, slowed to a halt and the sails
would have fluttered.
Later in the day, while Wayne slept on the starboard side on his
starboard side tanning his port ear, me still at the helm, the same
situation arose yet again and again, twice. And in both cases this
time knowing how to handle it, no one even knew or felt that it had
happened. I had a great time and learned a
fair amount. I
could feel the rudder through the wheel and with the wind direction
indicator atop the mast, I steered us (masterfully one might say) in a
meandering fashion towards our destination - Polace. While on
route we could see the Elafati Otoc (Elephant Islands).
Once in Polace, we moored at a restaurant, which meant we had to eat
there. These little coves that
 had moorings and facilities
(sometimes including power, water, etc) provided the service for free if
you had dinner at their place. So you usually got someone's home cooking. There was always fresh seafood, Lisa does not eat
seafood, fresh salad (either tomato, cabbage, greens, cucumber, or a
combination of all), and all the meat of various sorts you want.
Of course and vino and pivo. Way too much!
Anyway,
 after docking, we wet out to visit the Mljet National Park.
After paying the usual fee in Kunas which covered a bus up the hill and
ferry across the inland salt water lake to the island of Sv Marija where
there was an ancient Monastery. After walking around the small
island, we jumped in the lake for a swim. Really nice. So
salty that one almost floats out of the water. We were told to
look for the big clams, 3 or more feet in diameter, we found them in
6-12 inches in diameter. We were in the wrong lake. There
were to lakes. No biggie.
On the way back, after getting off the 3 stop ferry at the wrong stop
and then jumping back on, we got off where we started out. Lisa
and I decided to walk back (since we took the bus up). We could
have hired bikes earlier rather than take the bus, but we had too
much
gear to carry (cameras, fins, masks and snorkels and swim suits and
towels).
We met a young British couple vacationing touring the islands while on
the ferry ride back, jumped off with them incorrectly
 as I mentioned,
got back on, but they didn't. They were exploring... While
on our walk down the hill, we met them - blimey - we took the wrong
road, we are heading for other ferry stop. So we turned around and
the four of us walked back up the hill. Wayne and Linda were still
waiting for the van that seats 7 with 12 others. So we now took
the correct road and walked and talked with this very nice couple -
Chris and Keltie. Once at the bottom, we exchanged email and said
our goodbyes.
 The evening ended with drinks and dinner and more drinks and sleep.
Day 11 - Thursday - Day 5 of sailing - Down to
Šipan
and back to Mljet
A gorgeous day! Sunny skies, calm seas, and
wind for sailing. We sailed to Šipan on
the
island of same name
for lunch. On the way down, we finally did some jibing.
Sailed past the elephant islands, down near the end of Mljet on our
right to a nice little
cove on our left. After lunch, I had an unexpected yet long awaited and
needed nap. I awoke to the roar of the engines. A nap while there may have been some boats
colliding or near colliding I am told, but I missed it all.
Let me now describe to you
 a typical leg of a journey. As we start
out on engine power, we untie the boat, I release the mooring lines,
untie the 4 fenders on each side of boat and move them to the rear to be
retied while under sail. Then the skipper asks for the raising of
the main sail. To the mast I go, to lower the sail bag, raise the
main by pulling on the sheet (Wayne and I) until it is too hard to pull
manually. I then secure the line on the winch, grab the winch
crank and crank it the rest of the way. Quite the aerobic
activity. Then I raise the bag. Back to the cock pit.
Then the skipper asks for the Genoa sail. So I release the furling
sheet, put a few wraps on the winch of the Genoa
 sheet on the side the
non win-ward side of the boat. Sailors, please forgive my
descriptions which I am sure are not technically labelled or described.
This is a layman's description for other layman to get a feel for what
goes on. Then I pull in on the sheet while Wayne ensures the
Furling Line is free to let out. Then of course the sheet is too
hard to pull by hand so into the winch to be cranked and secured.
We are off. Sometimes, we adjust the main traveller - loosen a
sheet on one side, pull in the slack on the sheet on the other side so
that the main in effect is no longer parallel to the boat but off to one
side. Sometimes we even adjust the kicking strap. We also
sometimes pull back or allow forward the Genoa cars, in effect altering
the shape and how the Genoa flies. Later, the wind may disappear,
requiring the engines. Bring in the Genoa. Wayne pulls
on the Furling Line pulling in (rolling up the Genoa) while I keep
tension on the sheet. Then we wait for wind. And when it
comes, hoist the Genoa and we go again.
Now we were off to Mljet again, the southern tip this time,
backtracking a bit to a small place called Okuklje (Oh-ku-klyeah).
The wind was in front of us now making for faster times and forcing us
to tack since you cannot sail straight into the wind. One must zig-zag their way upwind (tacking). Now assume the Genoa is up and we
need to tack, usually a direction change of 100 degrees. What has
to happen. Skipper yells ready to tack, crew acknowledges they are
ready, skipper says "tacking", and turns the boat 100 degrees.
When the boat comes dead into the wind he yells "Leo", the secure Genoa
sheet is released, and the other sheet on the other side of the boat is
now pulled in and ratcheted and secured. Now the Genoa is on
the other side of the boat, the high side, while the people in the
cockpit are now down near water level as the boat is on a pretty good
pitch. Meanwhile, the main has also travelled to the other side,
boom bang and all, and so the traveller needs adjusting. You can
usually tack between 7 and 11 or 5 and 1 when going upwind.
And as you can see, either direction take you off course resulting in a
continuous progression of tacks back and forth until you reach your
destination.
Luckily today, we
had winds from the north, and seas up to 3 feet, perfect sailing conditions and
we tacked several times on the way. Then I took the helm for the rest of
the way and the skipper did the sheets while
tacking. It was great today
for me after getting the experience yesterday. The boat was
cutting thru the water, tilted as it should be, we got it up to 8.7
knots.
As
 you approach the cove, we pull in the Genoa, the the skipper
points the boat into the wind allowing for the lowering of the main.
First we raise the main bag (this allows the main to drop in keeping it
secure, safe, neat and tidy), then we release the cleat that holds the
main sheet, the sail drops, we tidy it into the bag, raise the bag,
secure the sheet, close the cleat, tidy the remaining sheet. Then
fenders from rear back to their locations on each side. If we are
anchoring, Lisa takes charge of dropping the anchor (whatever number of
feet the skipper asks for) (usually thrice the dept). In this case
we were docking at a mooring. Young could see several places to
moor, each owner out waving and holding the mooring line hoping we would
pick his place. As the skipper back in, Wayne and Lisa hold the
lines to throw off the back, I grab the hook so that I can reach the
mooring line being offered. It goes from shore then out into the
water in front of the boat where it is anchored. I grab the line
with the hook, pull it up, drop the hook and walk the line to the front
of the ship and cleat it after pulling tight so that the boat is now
secure from the front and the rear. Since there was no one else at
this location, we put a second
 mooring line (nice luxury) to better
secure and stabilize the ship.
We did a little walk around the cove, took some pics, skipper dove
off the front of the boat for a swim. When we returned, I went for
a swim myself. Very nice. Clear water. Sometimes the
water is royal blue (when out in the deep), sometimes it is turquoise
green (in and around some of the bays). Dinner and off to bed.
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Day 12 - Friday - Day 6 of sailing - Destination Dubrovnik, and last
sleep on board Lazy Penelope
We awoke to yet another great
breakfast a al Simon, which always included fresh bread, jams,
marmalades, cereal, fruit, milk, coffee, juice.
 My favs the rose
hip jam and the peaches. We then set off got Lopud, a very nice
town on a very nice island. The winds were silent. Seems
we've had great winds over night (to help rock us to sleep), only to
subside for the following day. Come to think of it, we did have a
few very rocky windy nights. But what a way to sleep, being rocked
like a baby, even if on occasion given a few really good shakes or
jolts.
At Lopud, we anchored and tendered in for a hour wander while Simon went
to work on procuring fresh vegetables and bread and other stuff for
lunch. As always, there were narrow winding roads,
oceanfront, churches and hills to explore.
Back on the boat, we had another typical Simon lunch, which always
included fresh bread, choice of salad, always from local produce,
various meats (again local). And other, who can remember, menu
items. Simon's meals were always look forward to and enjoyed by
all. The tomatoes here, Bill, you would enjoy, just like my dad's.
Oh are they good. Worth the trip over just to eat them for a
couple of weeks.
Then we pulled anchor and were off for our final destination, Dubrovnik.
When arriving, we saw a cruise ship, and the now landmark bridge.
We went under the bridge and up the river to the ACI Marina. Our
adventure now over.
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Day 13 - Saturday - Dubrovnik
After breakfast on the boat, sad good byes, and good wishes,
our cab
driver Ivan drove us to the Ploče
gate of the old city where we waited a few minutes for Nevena who met us
to escort us to our apartment. After settling in the apartment,
which is a ladder climb from the "wall", how cool is that, we left out some laundry for Nevena to do, she is very sweet. Then off
exploring.
Just down the street (a few meters) is a
tunnel thru the wall to the city beach. Here, beach means the
ocean with a pool ladder coming
out of the ocean. A quick walk around town, with Lisa calling me Karsh and Wayne Karsh Jr.
whenever we strayed or lagged to far behind. We found the market
where
 fresh produce and fruit, nuts etc were sold. We bought fruit and
a tomato and nuts for nibblies later when the need would arrive. Wayne and
I were tasked with returning the food back to home base.
On our return, lunch time it was. My belt was now showing a few
pounds have been added to my shoulders since I arrived. Scary
since the 7 course
meals of France still await. Anyway, whatever,
spicy
pizza for lunch. Then the girls wanted pokey time so Wayne
and I went to the island of Lokrum via ferry for photos of the city from
the ferry and various points on the island. Pretty island, e walked along the shore
to a beach, took photos, then up the big hill (yes hills are everywhere
here), to a fortress type thing for more pictures. From the island
we could see several cruise ships. There was more to see on the
island but we agreed to meet the girls for the walk around the wall
around čheteri sati.
So we met and climbed the stairs to the wall. This is the reason for coming here,
to Dubrovnik, to Croatia, to Europe. This is something one
needs to see in their lifetime - spectacular - we have never seen anything like
it. The wall took about 2 hours to traverse (Karsh speed), all
around the town. The vistas indescribable, the pictures will not
do them justice. We even walked past our apartment (which we could
see from above).
Took many photos.
Later that night, it got very windy. Most of the eating in
Dubrovnik takes place
 outdoors. So when it gets cold, indoor
eating spaces become hard to secure. After not being able to find
a restaurant that had indoor seating and would satisfy all four of us,
we split up. Lisa and I went to The Renaissance, that we had
walked by earlier and kind of fancied. We had to wait for 15
minutes for an indoor table, so we broke open a bottle of wine at sat
outdoors listening to the lovely live classical music performance.
The wine we had, Lisa had read about while researching Croatia, so we
were looking forward to trying it. Again it was a local wine, this
one from Korčula. It was very nice.
But as the waiter said, a bit heavy (14% plus alcohol) and that you can
only drink one bottle. Well we almost finished it, and we had a
buzz on, me more than Lisa since usually I have to drive, this time,
nope. We both had steak, hers in truffle sauce, mine in a
peppercorn sauce. They were superb.
When we returned home, we got a text message from home letting us know
that Emma was allowed to go to sleep at 1:45pm Halifax time. She
was a part of our family, we loved her, she was a very very good cat.
She is now with Pip.
Go to Day 14
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Quick links: 01
- Split |
06 - Split/Sail
| 10 - Sail... Mljet
|
14 - Dubrovnik cont'd |
18 - France |
21 - Cycling |
25 - Cycling cont'd |
29 - Villa cont'd |
32 - The Rest
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